REVIEWS

"In a town where sushi can too often be a listless, clumsy imitation of the real thing, Kenzan provides a lesson in how to do it right. Gloriously fresh, brilliantly coloured and presented with artisan skills, Kenzan's way with seafood is truly inspiring. Saba (mackerel) might come veiled by a semi-opaque square of seaweed, while delicate layers of akagai (cockle) arrive looking like an orange-hued work of art. But more than just the seafood impresses: the daily specials list might offer a delicately sweet tumble of fresh figs with savoury soybeans in a tangy vinegar sauce, or fresh shiitake stuffed with delicate chicken mince. Then there's homely, table-cooked sukiyaki and shabu shabu, guaranteed to fill you up and lift the spirits, or for dessert lovers, a creamy, earthy green-tea crème brulee. For a restaurant that has clocked up more than 20 years, the quality and continuing attention to detail at Kenzan is remarkable. Service remains a high point, as does the drinks list, with its good range of sake and mainly Australasian wines. The flatteringly lit room, with its screened sushi bar and tatami room, is also wearing its age gracefully."
- The Age Good Food Guide

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